Posts tagged waves
Posts tagged waves
a small day, Santa Teresa, Costa Rica
10/12/2011 searching for some different breaks, Playa Hermosa, Costa Rica
Our path to surf, Santa Teresa, Costa Rica
This image is ingrained in my mind because we walked this this track at least 3 times a day for 3 weeks. It was our path to the beach, to the sea and to the waves
Surf was absolutely pumping but probably a bit big for me, as it was my last day i paddled out anyway. High tide was approaching and waves were already starting to crash against hotel/restaurant walls. I had to sprint along sections of wall to get to the paddle-out point so I didn’t get taken out by an incoming wave. The surf was easily double-overhead when i got out there (way over my capability) But seeing as though i’d paddled out i decided to stay and check it out. I sat further on the inside and managed to get on one before it closed out on me. That was proceeded by two MASSIVE sets straight on the head before almost getting washed onto a seaweed farm which would’ve resulted in being speared by a bamboo pole. I had to sideways paddle for 10minutes of so before paddling into shore and then did some more sideways paddling to avoid being washed into Lindas restaurant wall. When i got up the steps I saw the whole restaurant flooding and the girls just sat in the corner reading magazines. We had one last rice packet lunch and sunbathing session before heading to Ware-Ware for dinner and reflection over our last week in Paradise
Early start but not so early by time we actually go off our arses and started walking. We walked through the first village and through forest up a few steep hills and bendy empty roads. Another village, lots more windy paved roads surrounded by nothing interesting, a poor tied up cow and we made it to dream beach.
Cove shaped with a huge crashing shore dump and unexceptionably picturesque with aqua crystal clear ocean, golden sand and sheer cliffs dropping down to it. Not the safest swimming beach but had a little dip before heading on a mission walk to Nusa Ceningan.
After crossing the bridge we though we should head back. Me and Joise ended up walking back. Asked a little girl where we can get ice creams from and she walked half a mile up the road with us to show us where we could get one so i bought her one to say thank-you. Must have got good Karma because half way back a local guy pulled over in his truck and offered us a lift back to Jungutbatu, when we tried to give him some money he refused to take it. There was me thinking all Indos wanted to rip us off….Ledgend!
Looooooong paddle out to reach Shipwrecks but the clearest water i’ve ever seen without a doubt and some of the best views you can get from a surf break. The first 45minutes was small, weak and I was surfing with half of Japan. When a boat came and picked them up the surf picked up for the rest of us. Had a bit of a shocking one, not going to lie, a bit frustrating when i saw a couple of girls ripping! After I realised I wasn’t getting anywhere I went for the mammoth paddle back in.
17/03/2011 The boat to Nusa Lembongan, Bali
My board and I go on another little adventure in the search for peace, quiet and waves
02/03/2011 another surf related injury….
-Result of getting out of Medewi on a outgoing tide, shallow water, loads of hidden (apprently spiky) boulders waiting to strike. After scraping my board up nicely i managed to smack my knee into a hidden boulder. The amount of blood gushing out of it and the looks of the faces’ of the locals made me think it was worse than it was. I was having trouble bending it and walking so that kept me out of the water for another week and i can now name the surf breaks i’ve been too by the scars on my feet and legs!
-Tubes is a famous restaurant on poppies two. Well famous for the crew of people who call Kuta there home for a few days, weeks or months and everyone that goes in there has a photo getting shacked in the fake wave.
11/02/2011 Meet Finda and Ethan
-both little rippers in the water and grew up on Sumbawa making the most of the epic waves on their doorstep. they came and hung out on our balcony with us on our last day and it was fun to see how enthusiastic they were about surfing. Finda was always in his red billabong rash-vest, every hour of the day we saw him.
11/01/2011 Plantations, Midigama
I was already surfed out this day so i went to photo some of the boys surfing a small day at Plantations.
KELLY SLATER WINS 10TH WORLD TITLE!
This is a photo of Kelly in the Quik Pro at Snapper Rocks in March this year. Kelly has gone on to win his 10th ASP World Title at Puerto Rico. Congrats Kelly!
(RTW09/10) Dane Reynolds, Quick Pro, Coolangatta, Aus
(RTW09/10) Dane Reynolds, Quik Pro, Coolangatta, Aus
I watched Dane on the Rip Curl Pro last night and he was absolutely ripping! I took heaps of photos at the Quick Pro at Snapper this year so I had a search through to see if I had some sick shots of Dane. This ones pretty cool.