Posts tagged surf

01/12/2011
6am and we were walking along the beach (in the wrong direction) to check the place ou. After a pancake breakfast we heading in the other direction for a solid 2 miles in the rising sun, which apparently is hotter between 9am and 12pm than it is in the afternoon, to check out some places. A few hostles and house viewing later we found Playa Cabinas which was perfect for what we needed. Two double bed, en-suite, hammock, beer fridge and a stroll to the waves for a happy $12.50 each

23/03/2011
Surf was absolutely pumping but probably a bit big for me, as it was my last day i paddled out anyway. High tide was approaching and waves were already starting to crash against hotel/restaurant walls. I had to sprint along sections of wall to get to the paddle-out point so I didn’t get taken out by an incoming wave. The surf was easily double-overhead when i got out there (way over my capability) But seeing as though i’d paddled out i decided to stay and check it out. I sat further on the inside and managed to get on one before it closed out on me. That was proceeded by two MASSIVE sets straight on the head before almost getting washed onto a seaweed farm which would’ve resulted in being speared by a bamboo pole. I had to sideways paddle for 10minutes of so before paddling into shore and then did some more sideways paddling to avoid being washed into Lindas restaurant wall. When i got up the steps I saw the whole restaurant flooding and the girls just sat in the corner reading magazines. We had one last rice packet lunch and sunbathing session before heading to Ware-Ware for dinner and reflection over our last week in Paradise

18/03/2011
Looooooong paddle out to reach Shipwrecks but the clearest water i’ve ever seen without a doubt and some of the best views you can get from a surf break. The first 45minutes was small, weak and I was surfing with half of Japan. When a boat came and picked them up the surf picked up for the rest of us. Had a bit of a shocking one, not going to lie, a bit frustrating when i saw a couple of girls ripping! After I realised I wasn’t getting anywhere I went for the mammoth paddle back in.

17/03/2011
Theres nothing like a steady boat journey to clear the mind. the boat was a local wooden fishing boat painted white and blue. We sat up on the roof for the journey under the bright blue sky. When we reached the outer reef nearing Lembongan we noticed just how clear that water was. See through. Beautiful shades of blue, the midday sun shimmering across the surface. i spotted the surf in the distance and i knew right away that it was exactly what i needed right there and then. I did a great job of getting of the boat, nearly stacked it face first into the water holding onto the boat ropes. Standard clumsy Candy.