Posts tagged surf
Posts tagged surf
a small day, Santa Teresa, Costa Rica
10/12/2011 Mal Pais, last stop on the quad for the day…
10/12/2011 searching for some different breaks, Playa Hermosa, Costa Rica
Our path to surf, Santa Teresa, Costa Rica
This image is ingrained in my mind because we walked this this track at least 3 times a day for 3 weeks. It was our path to the beach, to the sea and to the waves
A view of my winter….
One of my favourite photos because it almost sums up all of my winter trips….just a load of bikinis drying in the sun, behind the tropical plants after a day in the water
6am and we were walking along the beach (in the wrong direction) to check the place ou. After a pancake breakfast we heading in the other direction for a solid 2 miles in the rising sun, which apparently is hotter between 9am and 12pm than it is in the afternoon, to check out some places. A few hostles and house viewing later we found Playa Cabinas which was perfect for what we needed. Two double bed, en-suite, hammock, beer fridge and a stroll to the waves for a happy $12.50 each
Surf was absolutely pumping but probably a bit big for me, as it was my last day i paddled out anyway. High tide was approaching and waves were already starting to crash against hotel/restaurant walls. I had to sprint along sections of wall to get to the paddle-out point so I didn’t get taken out by an incoming wave. The surf was easily double-overhead when i got out there (way over my capability) But seeing as though i’d paddled out i decided to stay and check it out. I sat further on the inside and managed to get on one before it closed out on me. That was proceeded by two MASSIVE sets straight on the head before almost getting washed onto a seaweed farm which would’ve resulted in being speared by a bamboo pole. I had to sideways paddle for 10minutes of so before paddling into shore and then did some more sideways paddling to avoid being washed into Lindas restaurant wall. When i got up the steps I saw the whole restaurant flooding and the girls just sat in the corner reading magazines. We had one last rice packet lunch and sunbathing session before heading to Ware-Ware for dinner and reflection over our last week in Paradise
22/03/2011 Super high-tide destruction, Nusa Lembongan
-Whilst we were staying on Lembongan they were experienced super high tides to do with the new moon, restaurants were getting flooded out and the whole side walk completely pummeled. On our final day we saw the hangout spot for the locals just down from our hotel completely destroyed. They didn’t seem to let it get them down, they were straight back there rebuilding!
Looooooong paddle out to reach Shipwrecks but the clearest water i’ve ever seen without a doubt and some of the best views you can get from a surf break. The first 45minutes was small, weak and I was surfing with half of Japan. When a boat came and picked them up the surf picked up for the rest of us. Had a bit of a shocking one, not going to lie, a bit frustrating when i saw a couple of girls ripping! After I realised I wasn’t getting anywhere I went for the mammoth paddle back in.
Theres nothing like a steady boat journey to clear the mind. the boat was a local wooden fishing boat painted white and blue. We sat up on the roof for the journey under the bright blue sky. When we reached the outer reef nearing Lembongan we noticed just how clear that water was. See through. Beautiful shades of blue, the midday sun shimmering across the surface. i spotted the surf in the distance and i knew right away that it was exactly what i needed right there and then. I did a great job of getting of the boat, nearly stacked it face first into the water holding onto the boat ropes. Standard clumsy Candy.
17/03/2011 The boat to Nusa Lembongan, Bali
My board and I go on another little adventure in the search for peace, quiet and waves
06/03/2011 another unsuccessful surf check on the way back from our day in Negara
you can watch all you like boys, the surf ain’t coming
02/03/2011 another surf related injury….
-Result of getting out of Medewi on a outgoing tide, shallow water, loads of hidden (apprently spiky) boulders waiting to strike. After scraping my board up nicely i managed to smack my knee into a hidden boulder. The amount of blood gushing out of it and the looks of the faces’ of the locals made me think it was worse than it was. I was having trouble bending it and walking so that kept me out of the water for another week and i can now name the surf breaks i’ve been too by the scars on my feet and legs!
-Tubes is a famous restaurant on poppies two. Well famous for the crew of people who call Kuta there home for a few days, weeks or months and everyone that goes in there has a photo getting shacked in the fake wave.